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Restaurant Review: Fascino
By Grace Russell Published: 12/31/2008
Fascino
31 Bloomfield Avenue
Montclair, NJ 07042Revisiting a Montclair Classic more than five years after its 2003 opening, Fascino remains firmly atop the apex of Montclair’s dining map, thanks to the edgy creativity of Executive Chef Ryan DePersio, who continues to successfully push the culinary envelope. Co-owned with brother Anthony DePersio, and mother and dessert-maker extraordinaire, Cynthia DePersio, Fascino’s sophisticated, clubby atmosphere is the perfect venue for a restaurant that Manhattan would be proud to call its own.
Our introduction to fine dining land began with the evening’s complimentary appetizer—a small, deep-fried ball of rice and smoked mozzarella, bitingly perfect. On the advice of our waiter, we ordered the $15 Yellowfin Tuna Rollatini, wrapped around shaved fennel, red onion, micro-basil and cucumber salad, topped with a light, Asian-influenced sesame vinaigrette. Singing with flavor, this was a five-star dish.
Fascino’s family involvement extends to maternal grandfather, Paul Martino, who hand-fashions the “little ears” for the orecchiette pasta with caramelized cauliflower in a light and lovely sweet basil pesto, priced at $14 for the appetizer, $24 as an entree. Fall Vegetable Soup, $14, with Oregon morel mushrooms and a tasty basil pesto crostini, was a perfect cold-weather antidote, but it was the luxurious $12 Roasted Kabocha Squash Soup—with its olive oil croutons and sage crème fraiche—that stole our hearts. Kabocha squash, actually a type of Japanese pumpkin, has a flavor similar to a sweet potato, imparting a silky appeal to the soup. The toasted cumin jus, incorporating that often underappreciated spice, lent a rich, full flavor to the $28 Four-hour Braised Lamb Shank, while the slow cooking produced a falling-from-the-bone tenderness to the meat. Here, DePersio uses the Kabocha squash in a smooth polenta that accompanies the lamb shank.
Kurobuta pork, we learned, comes from an Iowa-raised Japanese black hog, dubbed by Ryan DePersio “The Kobe beef of pork.” With that endorsement in mind, we ordered the Roasted Kurobuta Pork Chop, $29, with a delicate pomegranate glaze, Sardinian couscous and vegetables. You’ll think of pork in a whole new way after trying this sumptuous crème de la crème of pork. DePersio cleverly pairs the voluptuous sweetness of his $28 Porcini-dusted Sea Scallops (beautifully topped with a lightly foamed sweet pepper confit) with a nutty-textured, flavorful farro risotto. Bravo!
Although entree portions are am
ple, you may want to sample one of the $8 side dishes, which include the farro risotto and Fascino’s signature deep-fried mascarpone polenta fries with gorgonzola fondue. Fascino also offers a five-course chef’s tasting menu for $65, and a four-course vegetarian tasting menu for $45, both of which offer items from the regular menu.
At dinner’s end, the intricate desserts of Cynthia DePersio—a former food writer, recipe developer, and dessert tester—sugared the air with their sweet and spicy aromas. Most desserts are $9, and her signature Fuji Apple Crostata, served with cinnamon gelato and maple-apple sauce, is a perfect example of how she elevates many of her offerings by creating them around artisan gelatos supplied by a specialty purveyor. Warm Banana Pecan Crisp Tart with butter pecan gelato, and a soufflé-like pistachio praline bread pudding with caramel sauce and chocolate shard, vied successfully for our attention.
If your New Year’s resolution is to pamper yourself a little, forget the spa and let Fascino and the DePersio family help you achieve that languorous sense of well-being with their dazzlingly delicious and visually stunning culinary adventures.
